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Fatty ‘Cue in the West Village is not the original Williamsburg spot that serves casual Asian-inspired barbecue. This is the Manhattan version, with a fancier menu that takes the playful barbecue and adds a creative twist.

A good example of this is the buttermilk pappardelle with smoked goat ragu.

Until recently, goat was mostly limited to ethnic restaurants. But of late, more high-end chefs have been playing with in on their menus.

Here, it’s been on the menu since the restaurant opened in September. It’s one of the most popular dishes and one of my favorites from Chef Dan Ross-Leutwyler.

He starts with a whole goat that comes freshly slaughtered from a halal butcher shop in Queens. He breaks it down, brines the pieces for 24 hours, then rubs them with a chili paste that includes aromatic Trinidadian and Grenadan peppers, fresh cayenne, ginger, garlic and shallots.

Then he smokes the goat for a few hours, and cooks it again in a bone broth until it’s tender and ready to be picked.

He mixes the goat with chili paste to order, tops it with butter and tosses it with pappardelle until the sauce clings to the noodles. It is finished with crème fraiche and shaved capra sarda, an aged goat cheese.

I love the combination of tangy noodles, moist, slightly spicy goat, and the fragrant aroma of earthy peppers.

The dish works well on its own, but is meant to be shared. I like to pair it with a kale salad, Ross-Leutwyler’s take on Caesar salad, and braised tripe.

Fatty ‘Cue is located at 50 Carmine Street, between Bleecker and Bedford Streets. For more dining recommendations, visit CHOW.com.