At Bar Corvo, a team of longtime restaurant pioneers are taking dining in Crown Heights to another level with twists on rustic Italian fare. CHOW.com Contributing Editor Pervaiz Shallwani filed the following report.
The city’s filled with restaurant pioneers. In Brooklyn, that now includes Bar Corvo, which has taken dining in Crown Heights to another level, with twists on comfort dishes like a hearty pork chop.
Thirteen years ago, Anna Klinger and husband Emiliano Coppa revolutionized dining on Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue when they opened the rustic Italian spot Al di La.
At Bar Corvo, the two partnered with Jacob Somer to do the same for the emerging scene on Washington Avenue, near Brooklyn Museum.
The old greasy spoon diner has been recast with low-lighting, hand made tables and a long bar that overlooks the action in the short-order kitchen. A backyard garden is on the way.
The menu is the work of long-time understudy Carla Martinez and like Al di La takes its direction from Northern Italy. Carla’s food is high on comfort with just enough innovation to set it apart.
The Grilled Heritage Pork Chop is one of my favorite examples of this. Carla starts by marinating a marbled pork chop in a mix of herbs, olive oil, a splash of vinegar and garlic to infuse flavor and tenderize the meat.
The chop’s then grilled to a healthy char and finished in the oven with a sauce of pork scraps. From there, it is layered on top of creamy polenta and greens that are slow-cooked in chicken stock and duck fat, and topped with ribbons of shaved horseradish instead of Parmesan.
Each bite is a fork full of comfort. The pork is perfectly pink and ridiculously tender. The tingly horseradish and flavor-packed sauce bring it all together.
Start off with a reasonably priced cocktail like The Old Fashioned -- bourbon, demerara syrup, angostura and orange bitters -- and the cauliflower steak, and make sure to save room for the burnt-orange caramel-topped creme fraiche panna cotta.
Bar Corvo is located at 791 Washington Avenue in Brooklyn.
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